Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык) - страница 111

Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык)

for a very long time to dissolve all the collagen, but these long cooking times will tend to remove

practically all of the taste from the meat, but the cooking liquid will become very flavoursome. The

meat used to make these stocks is usually not intended to be eaten, so the aim in this situation is to

actually maximise the amount of flavour that leaves the meat and enters the liquid. In this situation

nothing should be added to the cooking liquid like salt, because diffusion of the maximum amount of

aromatic molecules is desired.


This method of cooking meat produces the similar desired textures that boiling does except that it

increases the generation of taste.

During braising, the meat or poultry is first browned in hot fat, sometimes with vegetables. This starts

the tenderisation process (by increasing the activity of the meats own tenderising enzymes), and

favours the Maillard and browning reactions that produce the characteristic aromas of grilled meats.

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An aromatic cooking liquid is added to the pot. The liquid is usually flavoured (ie not water) and

normally contains vegetables and lard. A flavoursome cooking liquid reduces the leak of flavoursome

molecules from the meat by diffusion. The aromatic molecules from the vegetables will move into the

meat (where they are at a lower concentration) by diffusion, whereas the meats own aromas are less

likely to move out of the meat by diffusion, because the meat source (ie the ham and bacon) present in

the cooking liquid release similar types of molecules into the cooking juice, equally their concentration.

The meat cooks in relatively low heat (usually in a low temperature oven) for a very long time. The

long cooking time allows all the collagen to deform and dissolve, and the low temperature prevents the

coagulated protein networks from squeezing out too much water, and prevents heat induced

destruction of the flavour molecules. Covering the pot prevents the aromatic components evaporating

with the water vapour and flavour from being lost.

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