Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык) - страница 121

Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык)

around the flour starch granules and the potato cells. Once the gluten network has sufficiently

developed and the dough has become sufficiently strong, it is moulded into small balls and cooked in

boiling water.



During cooking, the flour starch granules will take up water and swell as they gelatinize, making the

gnocchi increase in volume. Gnocchi do not increase in volume as much as dried pasta and rice on

cooking, because much of its starch content is provided by the potato cells and the starch granules in

these cells have already gelatinized. The gnocchi keep their shape because the egg proteins on the

surface of the gnocchi, which are in direct contact with the boiling water, will be heated up very quickly

and will coagulate rapidly, keeping the gnocchi together and preventing it from falling apart.

Why do they rise?

When gnocchi are placed in cooking water they fall to the bottom, because they are composed mainly

of starch, and starch is more dense than water (if flour is placed in water it will fall). As the flour starch

starts to gelatinize, more and more water will enter the gnocchi, reducing its density more and more to

that of pure water, however its density will always be less than the density of the cooking water.

So why do they float to the surface of the pan? Gnocchi float because tiny bubbles of evaporating

water get trapped in the crevices in the gnocchi. When the crevices are filled with these tiny bubbles,

they are pushed up to the surface. If a gnocchi that has risen to the surface of the cooking water is

removed from the pan, and slowly rolled on a surface to remove the trapped air bubbles, when this

gnocchi is put back in the cooking water, it will sink. (This is the same phenonemen as when

cauliflower rises during cooking – cauliflower has a very irregular structure in which bubbles of water

vapour are easily trapped – when the cauliflower floats, if it is removed and its surface tapped, they will

re fall when returned to the cooking liquid).

So when gnocchi rises to the surface of the cooking water, it does not necessarily indicate that the

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