Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык) - страница 169

Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык)

Scrambling

When scrambling eggs, a liquid usually milk or cream, is added to the egg mixture to be scrambled.

Adding a liquid like this acts to “dilute” the egg proteins, or reduce the concentration per total volume

liquid, so their ability to find each other and coagulate, trapping the water molecules, is much less.

When scrambling eggs, they should be heated on a low heat (to further prevent over-coagulation that

often leads to the squeezing out of the liquid contained and separation of the mixture). Equally, the

mixture should be thoroughly stirred to prevent the bottom egg layer, that is heated more quickly, from

solidifying more quickly and producing and .over-cooked” and an “under-cooked” layer. The egg

mixture should be removed form the heat when it is still slightly runnier than desired because the eggs

will still continue to “cook” slightly after removal from the pan due to the heat still present in the pan

and the eggs (known as the residual heat).

With omelettes, the technique is slightly different because we desire the outer layer to be dry and

tough rather than moist and tender so that it has the strength to hold the tender more “scrambled”

eggs within.

Cooking tip

Why scramble eggs at boiling temperature? Try to make it at 65°C only, and you will get very soft,

almost creamy, scrambled eggs.

The egg at 65°C

As previously explained, the difference in coagulation temperatures of the egg white (62°C) and egg...

The egg at 65°C

As previously explained, the difference in coagulation temperatures of the egg white (62°C) and egg

yolk (around 68 °C) can be used by the chefs when cooking his eggs – if the egg is cooked at a

temperature of between 65 and 66 °C, the egg white will mainly solidify while the egg white will remain

fairly liquid. Additionally, because cooking temperatures are fairly low, the egg white will not be at all

rubbery.

This can be achieved most simply in the kitchen by cooking eggs, still in their box, in an oven set to 65

°C. The egg can be left for a whole day like this, to allow a slow coagulation of the egg whites, but

temperature will always be too low for either the hardening of the egg yolk, or for the egg white to

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