Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык) - страница 246

Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык)

aqueous solution can be replaced by egg white where mushroom was ground: adding oil and whipping

makes a white emulsion with the mushroom taste. But the oil can also be replaced by melted butter,

and a strange texture is obtained, that has been called “kientzheim of butter” (with cheese, or

chocolate, or foie gras”, respectively kientzheim of cheese, of chocolate and of foie gras can be made.

More generally, “olis”vii can be made using the principle behind aioli sauce: grinding any plant or

animal product liberates water and surfactants (proteins, phospholipids from the biological

membranes…) generate emulsions having the taste of the used ingredients.

_ “Chantilly cream” is traditionally made by whipping cold cream: the emulsion of cream is foamed by

the whisk. Can we keep the idea and change the ingredients? If some chocolate is melted in a pan,

with some water, a chocolate emulsion is obtained (O/W: O stands for oil, / for “dispersed into”, and W

for water). Then when the pan is put on ice cubes (to cool it faster) and the emulsion is whipped (+G),

after some time (some minutes, depending of the efficiency of the cooling), a “chocolate mousse”

(G+O)/W is obtained. It has been called “chocolate Chantilly”.viii Of course, the proportions of

chocolate and water have to be chosen so that the final fat/water ratio is about the same as the ratio in

ordinary cream.

What is interesting, in this case, is that this chocolate mousse does not contain eggs, and that the

texture can be the same as whipped cream. Moreover, the same equation describing the physical

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transformation O/W + G ® (G + O)/W can be used with other products, chocolate being replaced by

cheese, butter or foie gras, leading to “cheese Chantilly” or “butter Chantilly”, or “foie gras Chantilly”.

_ How much whipped egg white can be made with one egg? Generally less than 250 mL, but why? If

we thing that egg white is primarily made of water (90%) and proteins, we can guess that the volume

of foam is limited by water, or by proteins. It is easy to calculate that proteins are enough to make

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