Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык) - страница 248

Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык)

should be heated by the bottom of the ramekin. Then a vapour proof crust has to be done on the top

of the souffle (by grilling, after adding some ingredients that promotes crust formation). And finally the

egg whites should be very firm, as it was demonstrated that the firmness of the foam makes bigger


_ Vegetables are generally considered to have an interesting flavour that should be kept, by vapour

cooking or by boiling. This restricts the flavour of vegetables to a limited number of tastes and

prevents culinary inventivity. What could we do?

Knowing that many vegetables contain a lot of sugars, either reducing or non reducing sugars, the

idea behind “demi glaces of vegetables” it to add proteins or amino acids to vegetables during

cooking, in order to induce Maillard processes, that give more original tastes. In particular, vegetables

cooked for more than 30 minutes at water boiling temperature with gelatine give a very interesting

taste. Using other proteins, and also fats (mainly phospholipids, as it was demonstrated that this

category of fat molecules can participate to the later stages of Maillard processes), lead to other

interesting flavours.xii

_ Wines and stocks are paradoxical liquids, as they have both taste and odour, and are however

mainly composed of water. As odorant molecules should be hydrophobic, in order to escape from the

aqueous phase and stimulate the nose receptor, there is the question of why these molecules are into

water. Of course we perfectly know that molecules are seldom completely hydrophobic or hydrophilic,

so that they can distribute between air and the solvent.

However oil and water are not the only edible solvents, as ethanol can also be used. Hence the

experiment of shaking any hydrophobic product (1-octen-3-ol, oil, beta ionone…) with ethanol; when

this mixture is poured into water, ethanol dissolution in water liberates tiny droplets of the hydrophobic

compounds, dispersed into water. This “Pastis effect” generates a very stable system, where odorant

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