Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык) - страница 251

Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык)

4. disperse the puree S1 and the oil O into the soup W with gelatine as a surfactant: S1+O _


5. introduce some air into the emulsion : (S1+O)/W)+G_(S1+O+G)/W

6. wait until the gelatine makes the gel: ((S1+O+G)/W_ (S1+O+G)/W) /S2.

This dish was named “Faraday of lobster”, but Pierre Gagnaire instead put on his menu a faraday of

scallops, that was done with oil macerated with orange skins, black tea and scallops; the

(S1+O+G)/W) /S2 was put on top of slices of cod that had been grilled with butter.

At a lecture in the Institut technique de l’hotellerie du Quebec, in Montreal (Canada), other formulas

were tested. Any of these formulas can be done manually, or with the « pianocktail » that we designed

in collaboration with the Institut fur Mikrotechnik Mainz, in Germany. The idea behind this equipment is

to put micro reactors either in line or in parallel, so that formulas can be automatically done.

Prototypes have now been shown in many occasions. One of them is driven by a computer.

Culinary constructivism

Finally it should not be forgotten that cooking is not only craft, but also art and probably love (given by

the cook, or the pleasure to be together around a table). Introducing new technical ideas in the kitchen

has the same meaning as when the law of simultaneous contrast of colour, discovered by the French

chemist Michel-Eugene Chevreul, was used by painters of the neo-impressionism school, with artists

such as Pissarot, Delaunay, Signac, Horace Vernet and many others.

With the French cook Pierre Gagnaire, we try to transform scientific or technical ideas into art pieces,

in some “culinary constructivism”. In the same vein, other aesthetic ideas can be tested. Until recently,

cooks frequently quoted the food critic Maurice-Edmond Sailland, alias Curnonsky, who wrote that

dishes are good when they have the flavour of what they are. Is it true? Perhaps in part, but it is

strange that Aristotle also wrote, two millennia before, that art is imitating nature. The two aesthetic

ideas are the same, which means that aesthetical ideas in the kitchen are well behind art in music,

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