Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык) - страница 234

Молекулярная гастрономия для креативных шеф-поваров (англ. язык)

varies differently, but is equal after about two hours. Contrary to the theory saying that meat

put in boiling water looses les “juices” than meat put in cold temperature, it is observed that

the mass is lower in boiling water. This is due to shrinking of heated collagenic tissue: at this

tissue is more heated in boiling water than in cold water, the mass of excluded liquids is


According to the old culinary theory, the lower curve should refer to meat cooked in initially cold water,

and the upper curve should correspond to meat put in boiling water… but the reverse is observed! It

can be seen that meat shrinking in boiling water expels juices in the stock, and that, after about two

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hours, the two pieces have lost the same amount of matter. Clearly the old theory should be


Why this meat shrinking? Food science can tell that collagen is responsible for it, and that this

shrinking is partly reversible. This can be seen when the meat cools in its stock:











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Figure 10. When meat is cooked either in initially cold or boiling water, the mass is the same

after about two hours, an did does not change later. However, if the temperature is reduced,

the meat absorbs some of the cooking solution. When heated again, the mass is reduced to the

former equilibrium point… until collagenic tissue is dissolved and muscular fibres go apart.

In this experiment, meat was cooked in either initially cold or boiling water for many hours. At time

1000 minutes, heating was stopped, and meat was let to cool in the stock. It can be seen that the

meat absorbed some stock during cooling. After this step, the meat and the stock were heated again,

and the same lower mass than before was obtained. The conclusion of this experiment, than can be

repeated as long as collagen is not entirely dissolved, is that meat is like a “thermal sponge”.

Many cooking and cocting possibilities

As “cooking” is a very common word, applied to diverse possibilities, a classification of possibilities is

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